There is a particular energy to sod day. Pallets on the driveway, the sharp scent of fresh turf, the scramble to get every square foot laid before the sun climbs too high. Whether you are renovating a tired lawn or converting construction-grade dirt into something worthy of bare feet, success hinges on decisions made long before the first slab is set. After years of managing crews and walking homeowners through their first installations, I’ve learned that a good checklist is less about boxes and more about rhythm. The right preparation means you have momentum the moment that first pallet comes off the truck.
This guide walks you through what to have ready, what to expect, and how to handle the curveballs that inevitably arrive. It applies whether you are doing a Travis Resmondo sod installation with a pro crew in Polk County, a DIY sod installation in your own backyard, or a carefully timed Sod installation Winter Haven project during a Florida warm spell. I will also touch on regional considerations, such as St Augustine sod installation details that differ from Bermuda or Zoysia.
Start with the site, not the sod
Sod cannot fix grade problems, compaction, or poor drainage. It can hide them for a short season, then the trouble will resurface with fungus, yellowing, or thin patches. A strong installation day begins with a surface that accepts roots and sheds water predictably. The best surfaces feel like a firm mattress underfoot, not a packed parking lot and not a fluffy pillow. If your shoe sinks more than a half inch, you will fight sinkholes and bumpy mowing later. If a screwdriver will not penetrate 3 to 4 inches into the native soil, roots will struggle no matter how perfect the sod looks the day of delivery.
For remodels, I prefer lakeland sod installation to scalp the existing turf and weeds with a mower set low, then use a sod cutter to remove the thatch layer. That leaves a work surface that takes grading well. In new construction, you often inherit fill dirt, stones, and construction debris. Take the time to rake and screen the worst of it. One five-gallon bucket of rubble per 300 square feet is a good target, and it makes a noticeable difference in rooting and mower longevity.
Grade and drainage are part of the warranty you give yourself
Sod wants a gentle plane that directs water away from foundations and hardscape. Aim for a fall of about one inch per ten feet away from the house where practical. In tight urban lots or around patios, even a half inch per ten feet can work if you avoid low pockets. Roll marbles across the soil if you need a visualization. Where water predictably collects after a rain, amend or reshape the area. A yard-wide, shallow swale can move water invisibly if it is graded with a long, even slope.
If you plan a St Augustine sod installation, remember that this species tolerates a wider range of soil textures, but it will punish you for standing water. In the Gulf Coast and central Florida sand belts, I sometimes blend in 1 to 2 inches of compost across the top four inches to improve moisture retention, but I avoid adding a rich layer under sod in isolated patches. Different layers can behave like a perched water table. If you amend, keep it uniform across the installation area.
Soil preparation that actually sticks
The best time to improve soil is before the sod arrives. Amending after the fact is like seasoning a steak after it goes on the grill: possible, not ideal. On new turf areas, I like to till only lightly into the top 3 to 4 inches after spreading a soil conditioner, then power rake or drag with a leveling rake. Deep tillage can create soft spots that settle unevenly. Calcium-based soil conditioners help flocculate heavy clay, while humic substances make hydrophobic sands accept water more reliably.
Skip the temptation to load up on fertilizer the day before installation. Fresh sod carries nutrients from the farm. A light starter product, something in the range of 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet with phosphorus if your soil test shows a need, is more than enough. In regions with phosphorus restrictions, rely on a soil test and use a phosphorus-free starter. For St Augustine sod installation specifically, I keep first feeding modest, then follow with a more substantial application after the sod knits down in 4 to 6 weeks.
Irrigation checks that avert heartbreak
Sod dies from lack of water faster than almost any other lawn mistake, usually within 24 to 72 hours in warm weather. On installation day, your sprinklers must work on demand, across every zone, at coverage rates that overlap head to head. Run each zone for a full cycle before the truck arrives, checking for clogged nozzles, low heads due to settling, and poor coverage along edges. Reposition or add temporary hose-end sprinklers where in-ground coverage is thin.
Keep an extra dozen nozzles and a couple of risers on hand. In subdivisions where new sod goes down across several lots, I see at least one head sheared off by wheelbarrows or a skid steer nearly every other job. Minutes matter in the first watering cycle. Being able to repair a head immediately prevents stripes of wilt that are hard to reverse.
Delivery logistics most people forget
Sod is a living crop. Every hour it sits on a pallet in heat, it degrades. Good farms cut in the early morning and load directly. Schedule delivery as early in the day as possible, and aim to start laying within two hours of arrival. In hot months, drape breathable tarps or burlap over pallets in partial shade and lightly mist the edges if you see the outer rolls heating. Avoid soaking the pallet, which can encourage rot.
Trucks need access. Measure gate widths, note soft spots from recent rain, and plan pallet placement trsod.com commercial sod installation every 1,000 square feet to reduce hauling distance. When doing a Sod installation Winter Haven or anywhere with afternoon storms, I try to stage pallets under carports or on the shadiest side of the house to buy a margin of safety. The less you carry, the faster you can lay and press seams tight, which is how you win against heat.
Edge cases: slopes, tree roots, and tight corners
Every yard has something that wants to slow you down or create gaps. On slopes, lay sod courses perpendicular to the fall, stair-stepping joints so water does not find a straight path under seams. Pin the top edge with biodegradable sod staples every 12 to 18 inches if the slope exceeds about 10 degrees. Along tree roots, resist the urge to bury the root flare with loose soil to create a flat plane. Shape the soil to match the existing grade, then cut sod pieces to fit tight without elevating the surrounding soil. Around curves and tight corners, keep cuts clean with a sharp knife. Ragged edges dry faster and pull apart under irrigation.
St Augustine sod is forgiving in odd shapes because of its broader blades and thicker stolons. Bermuda and Zoysia require more exact cuts to hide seams. If you are doing a Travis Resmondo sod installation with a professional crew, ask the crew lead to assign the most experienced cutter to your most visible curves, like the front walkway. That small bit of attention is what makes a lawn look finished from day one.
The pace of laying that yields the best seams
Experienced installers keep a deliberate pace: neither rushed nor tentative. Start along the longest straight edge, usually a driveway or patio, and snap a chalk line if that edge is irregular. Work away from the line in brickwork fashion, staggering seams by at least one-third of a slab length. Do not create pinwheel seams, where four corners meet. Those joints are weak points and dry out first.
Press each piece tight to its neighbor. Gaps wider than a quarter inch will not close on their own. When you must bridge a small void, slice a sliver from a fresh piece and tuck it snugly rather than stretching a slab. Stretching thins the turf, leading to a pale spot later. I prefer a landscape roller half filled with water for final seating on flat areas. On slopes or soft soils, walking the seams with your heels and tamping the edges protects the grade better than a roller.
Watering schedule that prioritizes rooting over convenience
New sod has one job in the first week: stay hydrated enough to knit roots into the soil below. That demands frequent, light irrigation. For most warm-season sod in summer, I want the surface moist from dawn to dusk the first three days, then taper. Where temperatures push past the mid 90s, that can mean three to four short cycles per day on in-ground systems, 8 to 12 minutes per cycle for sprays, more for rotors, adjusted for pressure and layout. In spring or fall, two cycles may suffice.
After the first three days, pull back to one to two cycles per day while checking edges and high spots by hand. By the end of the second week, switch to deeper, less frequent watering to encourage roots to chase moisture downward. Hand-lift a few corners at day seven and day ten. If you feel resistance and see white roots reaching into the soil, you can begin the transition. If sod still lifts like a placemat, hold your deeper watering plan and reduce foot traffic.
For St Augustine sod, watch for signs of overwatering: yellowing tips and a spongy feel. Overwatered St Augustine invites disease, especially in humid pockets near hedges. Bermuda tolerates aggressive drying between cycles once it begins to root, and Zoysia appreciates moderation. In the Winter Haven area, summer thunderstorms complicate schedules. If a half-inch of rain falls, skip that next cycle and check the soil in the morning rather than set-and-forget.
The two checklists that keep you on track
Pre-delivery essentials:
- Confirm square footage ordered with 5 to 10 percent extra for cuts and waste, especially on curvy beds Verify irrigation coverage, run every zone, repair heads, and stage hoses Prepare grade with firm, even surface, remove debris, and set final height relative to hardscape Arrange pallet placement for minimal carrying distance and shade if possible Stage tools: utility knives with extra blades, flat shovels, landscape rake, roller, sod staples for slopes, and marking chalk
Post-install must-dos:
- Start irrigation within 30 minutes of laying the first area, cycling zones to keep all newly placed sod moist Roll or tamp seams once a section is complete, then check and close any gaps wider than a quarter inch Inspect edges along driveways, sidewalks, and beds, trimming cleanly for proper fit and reduced drying Adjust the controller for multiple short cycles the first few days, set a temporary rain pause plan Walk the site at day three and day seven to check rooting, fungus pressure, and sprinkler performance
Fertility and the first mow
You do not need heavy fertilizing on day one. If you applied a light starter during soil prep, your next feeding can wait until the sod knits down. I usually schedule a balanced warm-season fertilizer at 3 to 6 weeks, depending on rooting and season. For St Augustine, I favor 0.5 to 0.75 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at the first feeding, staying on the low end in shade. Bermuda can handle a little more, especially in full sun athletic-use yards. Always respect local ordinance windows for application timing, especially near water bodies in Florida.
The first mow matters more than most people think. Mow too early and you risk lifting and tearing seams. Mow too late and you scalp a jungle, shocking new roots. The right moment is when the sod resists a gentle tug and has grown 30 to 40 percent beyond your target height. For St Augustine, that often means mowing at 3 to 4 inches, removing no more than a third of the blade. For Bermuda, start near 1 to 1.5 inches if it will be maintained short, or higher if your mower and soil are not ready for low-cut care. Make sure blades are sharp. Dull blades shred tips, inviting disease during this delicate period.
Weed and disease vigilance without paranoia
Sod farms do an excellent job delivering clean product, but you will still see the occasional broadleaf or grassy volunteer. Avoid using pre-emergent herbicides immediately after installation unless a professional directs it for your specific grass and climate. Many pre-emergents can impede rooting. Instead, hand-pull isolated weeds during the first month. If you see a patchy, smoky appearance across blades in humidity, especially late summer, you might be seeing gray leaf spot on St Augustine or dollar spot on Bermuda. Good airflow, correct watering, and avoiding excessive nitrogen reduce risk. If disease progresses, consult a local turf pro for a targeted fungicide, not a blanket cure-all.
Edges, borders, and transitions that age well
Where sod meets landscape beds or tree rings, create a slight soil commercial sod installation shelf so the sod sits level with the surrounding grade once it settles. A half inch above is fine on day one, as sod often compresses. Avoid building a berm at the border line. Over time that berm channels runoff under the sod edge and dries it out. If you use plastic or steel edging, set it before sod day. Retro-installing edging after sod is down almost always creates gaps or forces an uneven cut that highlights the seam.
At hardscapes, leave the sod fractionally high, about a quarter inch, so it meets the edge nicely after rolling and early watering. One of the most common callbacks I see is from edges that sink and reveal the concrete lip, which not only looks rough but also loses moisture faster.
Special notes for Florida and the central ridge
Sod installation Winter Haven and neighboring communities on Florida’s central ridge bring a unique mix of sandy soils, summer heat, and frequent rain. St Augustine sod thrives here, but it is not a set-and-forget grass. Keep shade in mind. St Augustine tolerates partial shade better than Bermuda, but even it tires under dense oak canopies. In those areas, prune for dappled light and accept a slightly higher mowing height and lower density.
For Travis Resmondo sod installation projects or other professional crews operating in Polk, timing matters. The sweet spot for heavy installations is late spring through early summer when soil temperatures rise, but before daily storm patterns set in. You want fast rooting and manageable disease pressure. In winter, sod will survive, but rooting slows. Water less frequently to prevent rot in cool, damp stretches, and delay heavy fertilization until consistent warmth returns.
Cost and value: where to save and where not to
It is tempting to hunt for the lowest price per pallet and DIY everything. Many do, and many succeed. But a few investments pay for themselves quickly. Delivery placement and timing, even if it costs a little extra, is worth it. A professional grade and rake crew for half a day can erase years of bumps and dips. If budget is tight, you can save by handling pallet breakdown and hauling while leaving the layout and seam work to someone who does it every week. Conversely, do not cut corners on irrigation checks. The nicest sod on earth cannot overcome a dry corner.
Aftercare that sets the tone for the first year
Your first month sets the trajectory for the first year. Keep foot traffic light for two weeks. Pets should use a designated area, especially during the first several days when the surface stays moist. Resume normal play slowly, starting with half the yard while the other half rests. Adjust watering as the season changes. Most warm-season grasses prefer deep, infrequent watering once established. One inch per week is a general starting point, from rain and irrigation combined, but sand and heat may push you higher while shaded clay may need less.
Sharpen mower blades three to four times during the first growing season. Keep wheels clean to prevent ruts during soft periods. If you topdress for leveling, wait until the sod is rooted, then apply no more than a quarter inch of sand or sandy loam at a time, brushing it into low areas. Multiple light applications beat one heavy burying that chokes blades.
When to call a pro
There is pride in a DIY sod installation, and I encourage it when the scope and conditions align. Hire help when you face complex grading challenges, large slopes that need anchoring, or irrigation retrofits that exceed simple head adjustments. If you are working on a property sale timeline or a community compliance deadline, the speed and predictability of a pro crew pays dividends. Companies experienced with local grasses, such as teams that handle Travis Resmondo Sod installation, bring small efficiencies that are hard to replicate, from pallet staging to seam-tightening techniques. They also know which problems must be solved today and which can wait a week.
The little details that separate good from great
Every excellent sod job I have seen shares a few quiet traits. The last pallet looks as fresh as the first because the crew staged work in shade and rotated stacks. Edges along concrete are scored square with no shaggy pieces. Sprinkler heads sit flush, not sunken, so they do not wash out little craters. The controller has a temporary schedule labeled for the homeowner, with a date to return for the first mow and check. And perhaps most telling, there are no footprints across the finished surface because the final passes respected the grade.
If you follow the rhythm laid out here, you should end sod day tired, a little muddy, and satisfied that the job was done with care. The lawn you see that evening is just the start. In two weeks, seams fade. In a month, the mower leaves clean stripes. By the end of the season, guests will assume it has always been there. That feeling is why we do this work and why the right checklist matters.
Travis Resmondo Sod inc
Address: 28995 US-27, Dundee, FL 33838
Phone +18636766109
FAQ About Sod Installation
What should you put down before sod?
Before laying sod, you should prepare the soil by removing existing grass and weeds, tilling the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches, adding a layer of quality topsoil or compost to improve soil structure, leveling and grading the area for proper drainage, and applying a starter fertilizer to help establish strong root growth.
What is the best month to lay sod?
The best months to lay sod are during the cooler growing seasons of early fall (September-October) or spring (March-May), when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more consistent. In Lakeland, Florida, fall and early spring are ideal because the milder weather reduces stress on new sod and promotes better root establishment before the intense summer heat arrives.
Can I just lay sod on dirt?
While you can technically lay sod directly on dirt, it's not recommended for best results. The existing dirt should be properly prepared by tilling, adding amendments like compost or topsoil to improve quality, leveling the surface, and ensuring good drainage. Simply placing sod on unprepared dirt often leads to poor root development, uneven growth, and increased risk of failure.
Is October too late for sod?
October is not too late for sod installation in most regions, and it's actually one of the best months to lay sod. In Lakeland, Florida, October offers ideal conditions with cooler temperatures and the approach of the milder winter season, giving the sod plenty of time to establish roots before any temperature extremes. The reduced heat stress and typically adequate moisture make October an excellent choice for sod installation.
Is laying sod difficult for beginners?
Laying sod is moderately challenging for beginners but definitely achievable with proper preparation and attention to detail. The most difficult aspects are the physical labor involved in site preparation, ensuring proper soil grading and leveling, working quickly since sod is perishable and should be installed within 24 hours of delivery, and maintaining the correct watering schedule after installation. However, with good planning, the right tools, and following best practices, most DIY homeowners can successfully install sod on their own.
Is 2 inches of topsoil enough to grow grass?
Two inches of topsoil is the minimum depth for growing grass, but it may not be sufficient for optimal, long-term lawn health. For better results, 4-6 inches of quality topsoil is recommended, as this provides adequate depth for strong root development, better moisture retention, and improved nutrient availability. If you're working with only 2 inches, the grass can grow but may struggle during drought conditions and require more frequent watering and fertilization.